Common Tools

Please note: I am located in the United States so many of my recommendations are based on that geography.

Please keep that in mind as you read through this article.

Aside from steel, the other major component of knifemaking is tooling. Personally, I am not sure which one is prone to more obsession by those just getting into the hobby. For me personally, tools had a slight advantage, mostly because I had none really. In this article, I will break down what you really need, based on my own experiences thus far. I'll also share what I did and some thoughts about how I would have approached this topic if I had a bit more insight back then, for what it's worth.

To put this article in perspective, knifemakers need to do the following to steel: make holes, cut, shape, and heat. Accomplish all of those and you can make a knife. Details are below and I've even assembled a shopping list for you to use.

The bare reasonable minimum

If you drew a Venn diagram of every knifeshop, at all levels of sophistication, there are some tools that always fall in the middle. Let's talk about those first. It's a short list and not very unusual.

You can scoff at the "safety police" all you want, but they typically still have both eyes, all their fingers and, two functional lungs well into a ripe old age.

Safety Gear

I will keep this very simple. Make it a habit to always, always, ALWAYS wear eye protection in your workspace. Get a box of safety glasses so you always have a fresh and crystal-clear pair ready to go. This way you will want to use them.

Buy a respirator with filters. The link I've shared is less than $30 bucks ... with included filters!

Ear plugs are another great idea if you are working indoors.

If you can also get your hands on a full-face helmet that is even better but I would say only necessary if you are working with angle grinders or belt grinders. I use this Grinder Hood from Benchmark. Its shape allows you to wear a half-face under the shield.

You don't need a fancy power drill. A steady hand, good cobalt drill, and a center punch will do everything you need.

Power Drilling Tool

Assuming you want to create a knife with a handle, the ability to create holes in steel and other materials is a must. Almost everyone has a corded or cordless power drilling tool of some kind. If it will accept a 1/8" in cobalt drill then you are all set. If you are fortunate enough to have a drill press then even better.

If you have neither, I would suggest going to your local retail, hardware, or tool store and picking one up. For $20.00 you can grab a brand new variable-speed power drill at Harbor Freight or Walmart if you are trying to keep costs very low. You can also check out your local paper, eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and garage sales for good deals.

If you have or can acquire screw-driving bits for your drill, even better.

Cobalt Drill

Drilling steel is a challenging task for tools, and you should use cobalt drills to reduce frustration and the need to run out and buy more drills when cheap ones break. My favorites of all time are these 1/8" Bosch cobalt drills. They are inexpensive and perform very well. When starting out, this size will be quite sufficient. There isn't a need at the very beginning to buy a whole bunch of additional sizes if you are trying to keep costs low. I would avoid black oxide-coated or titanium high-speed steel (HSS) drills. They will not last very long, if at all when drilling knife-grade steels.

Plus, if you're going with the recommended 0.120 in thick 1080 steel with your first knife, the 1/8" drill also has another use that we'll cover in another article.

Center Punch

Keeping with the theme of making holes, you will want to grab a punch to make drilling easier and more predictable. These tools make a small indentation in the steel so your drill does not wander. They come in two types: staking punches and automatic punches. Either will do though automatic punches are very convenient. You can go very cheap here with this staking punch at Amazon or this automatic punch at Harbor Freight. I've used mine for four years and it performs like new.

Show me a knifemaker with enough clamps and I'll show you a knifemaker who doesn't make knives.

All of these items share a common theme: it is impossible to have too many and you will always have too few ...

Clamps

When drilling and cutting, you need to safely secure your steel. A couple of C-clamps or Bar clamps and a flat, stable surface will work well. A vise is even better and more convenient, but not necessary. I would recommend two 6-inch metal C-clamps to start. Later, pick up more to add to your collection. You'll never have enough. This is also another common garage sale item so look around if you want to save some money. Very old clamps are fun.

Alternatively, you can also drill holes in your steel and screw them to a bench, stump, or other stable wood surfaces.

Sandpaper

Knifemakers use an obscene amount of abrasives. In this case, "sandpaper" means sheets of abrasives used as-is or on some type of flat block. Sandpaper used in this manner will be used for cleaning, finishing, shaping, and even sharpening. I would recommend picking up a variety pack of multipurpose or metalworking sandpaper with grits from 80 to 400. You can go lower or higher if you wish.

Sheets and / or rolls work well. I tend to use the following:

3M pro-grade for my 60-120 grits
Rolls of high-quality AO for 120-400 grits (you can also use sheets and tear into strips)

In my opinion, anything above 400 grit is not a necessity when starting out. Invest your energy in getting the knifemaking process down first. Shiny does not equal formidable.

Masking Tape

Here's a question: what do knifemakers use more of, sandpaper or blue tape? Either way, grab a couple of rolls of 2-inch wide blue painter's tape. Any brand or off-brand is fine. You'll use it for things you never thought possible like edge guards, temporarily bonding handle scales, making reusable layouts, mixing epoxies, flagging drill depth, labeling, and so much more.

Permanent Markers

Black or blue Sharpie or whatever other brand you want. A nice chisel tip and a fine point as well. Dollar Tree, Staples, Walmart, and so forth. My favorites are the Industrial Grade Black Sharpies in my local Ace Hardware.

Cutting Steel

Here is where we start to diverge from the general to the more shop-specific. Thinking about the new folks, here are three potential options.

Not the fastest, but cheap and effective. Use a drill to help with small curves.

Simple Option 1: Hacksaw

It's a saw. You drag it back and forth. Bulk up your arms and tear through steel with a good hacksaw and a bi-metal blade. You can pick one of these up at any hardware or tool store for about $25.00. When combined with a power drill, you can also manage curved cuts with ease.

The higher-end alternative is a metal cutting bandsaw. I won't cover those here as they are much more expensive and not what I would consider entry-level. Full disclosure: I use a portable band saw mounted on a table. I love it.

Possibly the most useful power tool in knifemaking if you are careful, patient, and clever.

Simple Option 2: Angle grinder

If you are safe, careful, and patient, it is actually possible to make an entire knife with a drill and an angle grinder.

CAUTION: Angle grinders rotate at very high speeds and as a result, create massive amounts of friction. The sparks produced by angle grinders can ignite flammable materials and cause eye and skin injury. Furthermore, there is ALWAYS the risk of cut-off wheel failure which will cause damage to any object and person in the path of the rotating disc. For these reasons, NEVER operate an angle grinder without its shield, without full face protection and respirator, or in proximity to flammable materials or other persons. I've caught a chunk of exploded cut-off wheel in my arm, and a steel brush bristle in my face, so yeah ... it happens.

Angle grinders offer an inexpensive means to cut and remove metal quickly and accurately. The prices vary greatly and are largely affected by the power output. If you have one, great. If not you can pick a cheap one up for $20.00 new. A little light on power, but it will do the trick. You will also need abrasive cut-off wheels and I would also recommend some low-grit sanding or grinding discs for bulk removal and finishing.

There is nothing metal that cannot be made with a good, sharp file.

Simple Option 3: Files

Files are the mainstay metal removal tool. In multiple Youtube videos, Walter Sorrells goes into just how far you can push these humble tools and I must say from personal experience, it is all true. Files are hardened steel tools with various "tooth" shapes that allow for rapid or precision removal of metal or other materials. Generally speaking, they cut in one direction so there is a bit of practice required. They come in all shapes, sizes, and tooth configurations.

In my shop, I use files all the time, even though I have a variety of more sophisticated stock removal options.

A set of very basic and heavy files from Harbor Freight will work well enough to start. Some of my favorite files were found at garage sales and Facebook Marketplace. I have a set of Grobet files that I picked up nearby for $20.00. I use them for steel, composites, and hardwoods too.

Back to "cutting steel". With files, you have the option to just remove all the steel you don't want or pair the files with a power drill to speed up the process, much like with the hacksaw example above.

Know this: if you make your first knife using just a file to create the bevels you officially unlock the "Determined Badass" lifetime achievement. True story. Email me a picture and I'll make you a digital badge.

Stock Removal (shaping the steel)

In addition to just cutting away steel to reveal the outline of the knife, you will need tools to remove steel and form the bevel, or cutting surface. The first two tools we have already discussed and the third is a bonus.

Simple Option 1: Files

Yepp. Just like before, files work well for removing steel at an angle. All the same principles apply, with one important difference:

You will need to drag a flat file across the target bevel area of the knife at a consistent angle.

I've done this by eye and hand and with simple guides and jigs. A flat bastard file will do most of the work, and a half-round file will help if you want flowing transitions between the flat area ahead of the bevel (the "ricasso") and the bevel itself.

Simple Option 2: Angle Grinder

Using an angle grinder with a low-grit grinding disc or flap wheel can remove a lot of steel quickly. I would avoid using an angle grinder on wood or other handle materials due to the high friction that tends to burn those materials.

Bonus Option 3: Harbor Freight 1x30 Benchtop Belt Sander

Okay. If you must go out and purchase a "specialized" tool for knifemaking here is one low-cost suggestion.

Removed the side cover.

I made dozens of knife on my trusty 1x30. Ran it until it died. Definately got my money's worth .

Cobbled together a wider table with scraps.

Weighting in at about $60.00 from Harbor Freight is a high-speed, low-power belt sander that many knifemakers began with, myself included. Knife number five was made with this same tool plus dozens thereafter. If you are thinking about this solution to accelerate your knifemaking journey I have a few thoughts to share.

Good Belts

Do yourself a favor and don't bother with the aluminum oxide (brown) belts that come with the 1x30. They are terrible, especially for knife making. I would use the HFT 40- and 80-grit zirconia belts and go to Amazon and pick up some 120- and 240-grit 1x30 belts. That will get you started.

You can also go to Combat or Phoenix Abrasives and pick up some good ceramic belts as well.

Table and Jigs

The table on the 1x30 is very small, sometimes rough, and often wobbly. With some creativity, all three can be dealt with. You can use the table at 90 degrees and go freehand or adjust it to an acute angle and use a simple angle-iron jig to assist you. Everyone finds their own way. Don't bother with buying any jigs or guides at this point.

High Speed

The motor in the 1x30 runs at ~3600 rpm, which is quite speedy for knife making. Higher RPM means faster belt speeds, more friction, faster removal, and more heat. We will dive more into what that means later. For now, remember that with the 1x30, a little pressure goes a long way when carving out steel.

Plastic Covers

You may want to consider removing the large plastic side cover altogether. It is meant to guide dust but causes two problems for knifemaking: accumulation of flammable metal dust and changing belts.

Small Platen

Another challenge presented by the stock 1x30 sander relates to the small and flimsy platen. It works well enough if you watch your pressure and avoid adding bevels to anything more than two inches off the table. For small Western knives, this is not a huge issue, however for knives with curved handles such as a kiridashi, this may require some creativity.

On my old 1x30, I replaced the mild steel platen with heat treated 1084, both thicker and taller. I also added a brace to the platen to give it more strength against pressure during grinding.

Heating the Steel, Part 1

We've arrived at the fun part that most people think of when envisioning the life of a knifemaker. Forges, fire, and grit. The truth is a lot more humble. The tools I will share below are focused on first-time knifemakers using 1080 high-carbon steel to austenize (heat), quench (harden), and temper (toughen) that specific steel. The options below exclude anything like forges, kilns, or high-temp ovens as I would consider those to be specialized tools.

These methods I discuss below are best suited to small knives made with 1080 steel about 1/8 inches thick.

Required Items: Magnet and Pliers

Grab a telescoping magnet or any magnet you can attach to a stick. A pickup magnet in a housing with a hole in the center works great. This magnet will help approximate the temperature of heated steel. Specifically for 1080, the transformation into austenite begins at a temperature that coincides with the steel losing magnetism (see this article from Knife Steel Nerds). Therefore a magnet may help you determine if your steel is hot enough to quench.

Safely handle red-hot and oven-hot steel using a pair of pliers that are at least 10 inches long overall. Locking pliers ("vise grips") would be ideal. Personally, I use these comically-long locking pliers.

Simple Option 1: Propane Torch and a Magnet

Assuming your first knife is something like a kiridashi or a small utility knife with a 3-inch blade, a propane torch should work well. If you do not have one , another variation would be a MAP-PRO torch that uses a combination of MAP and propane, which together burn hotter. I use a Bernzomatic piezo-ignition kit I picked up at the local Ace Hardware that has been going strong for four years.

[Not-so-Simple] Option 2: Build a Fire

I'll spare the specifics of safety here and hope you have the foresight to build a contained fire in a legal location with the means to extinguish that fire safely.

Using a charcoal or wood fire is pretty primal, however, the heat is not as controlled or even as a torch. Therefore I personally do not recommend this method. However, I will admit I did this twice myself and it worked OK.

Variations of the above

Everyone's situation is different of course. If you already have access to more advanced torches, high-temperature kilns, or other tools then by all means let your creativity loose. Alternatively, you can call on various heat treating service providers who will do this for you for a fee. Peters Heat Treating is probably one of the most popular. They are experts and have their processes dialed in. Like with all things, balance your options.

Heating the Steel, Part 2

Quenching. While this isn't technically "heating", it does deserve mention because there are several options available and also options you should avoid at all costs. Put simply quenching is the act of dropping the temperature of austenized steel quickly and evenly to maximize and lock in hardness. It is a violent temperature change that uses a conductor such as oil, water, air, or metal to draw heat away from the blade. Thanks to the simplicity of 1080 steel there are two general options: oil and water.

The methods below use water, food safe oils, and engineered quenching oil. DO NOT under any circumstances, use new or old motor oil, transmission oil, or anything like that. First, it is too viscous and does not conduct heat quickly enough to maximize hardness. Second, and you can research this yourself, motor oils have a low ignition temperature (about 300-400F). I won't waste time talking about toxicity because those two preceding points are reason enough.

Simple Option 1: Water in a Metal Bucket

This is as simple as it gets. Make a small knife, heat it evenly to non-magnetic plus a bit more, and then plunge it into a couple of gallons of clean water. That's it. Use a metal bucket to ensure you don't accidentally push the glowing-hot metal into the side or bottom and melt it. The more water you use, the more mass you have available to draw away the heat. The downside to this? Water conducts heat very well causing a violent reaction in the steel. There is a risk of cracking or shattering the knife. Otherwise, this is a very safe and effective option.

Could you use a 5-gallon plastic bucket and just be very careful? Yes. I'll leave it at that.

Total cost: $10-15 for a metal bucket. I'll assume you have access to running water. Plan on breaking a few knives.

Simple Option 2: Clean Foodsafe Oils

The setup is the same as water: two gallons of peanut or canola oil in a metal bucket. For a small knife, you may see a little smoke but likely not any flames if you plunge right in. The transfer of heat is not as quick as with water, so the result may be less hardness. If you work with a small knife you should be OK and harden it well enough. If you choose this path, do not use a paint can or an empty can of beans. You need mass to ensure even and quick cooling. Also, don't use anything plastic. You don't want a flaming plastic bucket of oil. Bad times.

Total cost: $20-50 for oil depending on where you go

Ideal option: Engineered Oil

I would say if you don't want to go the "bucket of water" route then this is your best bet. The downside is you are about to buy something specialized. If you decide knifemaking sucks then you're out quite a few dollars. Properly heated 1080 steel works best when quenched in an engineered oil like Parks 50. This oil on Amazon is the most accessible engineered oil of this type I am aware of. On the bright side, for a small knife (kiridashi, three-inch blade) you might be OK with one gallon of this stuff in a clean paint can. DO NOT USE PLASTIC. I use 2 gallons of the aforelinked oil in a metal ammo can. Again, balance your options.

Total cost: $45-90 assuming you already have a metal container for it

Heating the Steel, Part 3

The third stage of heat treatment is tempering. This process uses conventional temperatures to convert the hardness from quenching into toughness and durability.

The temperatures involved are sustainable with household ovens. In fact, many accomplished knife makers still residential grade ovens for tempering.

The target temperature is 400F and you will need to hold it for two hours, cool, then repeat.

Simple Option 1: Kitchen Oven

Yep. That’s it. Set your oven to 400F, let it preheat then sit for 30 minutes. Add your knife and bake for one to two hours. Remove to cool then repeat. Zero cost assuming you have an oven and don’t mind using it in this manner.

Simple Option 2: Toaster Oven

Small toaster ovens offer space and location advantages. You can easily put one in your shop and they heat up quickly. The potential downside is accuracy and consistency. Their size is their strength and weakness. The low mass causes toaster ovens to get really hot then cool then really hot again.

To help balance the temperature, add more mass. I’ve placed a 1/4 inch thick mild steel plate on the center rack of my shop toaster oven. This plate captures and radiates heat more evenly. As a result, I also allow the oven more time to heat up and equalize.

The second challenge with most toaster ovens relates to the target temperature, especially with cheap mechanical models. 400F on the dial might result anywhere between or beyond 375F - 425F. This makes a notable difference in the outcome. You can address this issue by using an oven with digital control or with a laser thermometer. Add the extra mass and set the oven to 400F on the dial. Let it preheat and equalize for 20 minutes then check the temperature of the steel plate. Between 400F and 415F is ideal. If needed, turn it up or down slightly, then check again after 10 minutes. Once you find the sweet spot on your dial, scribe it with a permanent marker so you can set it again later.

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